Description: Hello and thank you for viewing my auction! If you have a Micro BL-91 (or I THINK the RX-1500 also uses the same bearing?) it's pretty old now. Original manuals say the main bearing is "lifetime fill" but I don't think they had this long of a lifespan in mind then... The original oil is (apparently- I have not tested it) doped with lead, which is not something we mess around with these days. It is also a natural (Dino-based) oil, and susceptible to evaporation over time, leaving the top bushing to run dry, and then score the spindle shaft. Sometimes even the bottom bushing causes scoring. Modern synthetics easily out-perform natural oils in every way. But, finding a proper synthetic oil that provides equal (at least) or better (Ideally) performance is no small task. We need a gear oil weight, with the proper additive package to eliminate wear of the spindle, have a very high "slipperiness" and not affect the bronze bushings in any negative way. We want damping factor too- the bearing should be QUIET in operation. I offer an oil that works exceptionally well in the Rega main bearing. That was the first one I tried naturally, and although it's performance seemed fine, in actual use it was rather noisy, when the bearing is run with the platter (which amplifies any noise) and the rubber sheet removed from the top. I sourced a completely new formulation for this specific application, and I think I found a winner. Every bearing is different, but any bearing still filled with (what’s left of) the original oil will benefit. That out of the way, lets move on... Another source of the noise in this bearing, besides the spindle wear, is the thrust ball itself. Like the Rega, a steel ball is used. Unlike the Rega, Micro used a larger ball, so I had to source the correct size. I also found the steel ball wears a divot in the thrust plate. Not massive usually, but it's there, so that needs to be addressed as well. Tired of my ranting yet? Sorry. I just want to highlight that I take the entire performance package into consideration. Anyone could polish a shaft and do an oil change, but the performance will not be even as good as original, unless they have old bottles of lead-doped oil kicking around. It's the 21st century now. Let's throw some technology at this thing! Step by step process: Thoroughly clean the housing externallyDisassemble, and inspect all componentsCheck shaft for straightness (Note I cannot straighten bent spindles!)Clean all internal components, which includes ultrasonic cleaning of the bronze bushings.Polish the external housing (purely cosmetic)Polish the spindle to 2 micron surface finish or better (2 is "mirror"; I can usually get 1 micron)Lap both sides of the thrust plate, as well as the housing base the plate bears on, to ensure solid support and flatness.Install a brand new hi-tech polymer thrust ballRe-fill with new synthetic oil and re-sealAllow assembly to acclimate to room temp. Often a bit of oil "seepage" will occur from the top bushing, because I completely fill the housing to ensure lubrication of the top bushing, and also provide the oil cushion between the bushings, which helps dampen vibration. (this is messy and unfortunately wastes a lot of rather expensive oil)Assembly is heat-sealed in a bag to prevent any oil from leaking into the packaging during transport. Some additional seepage may occur depending on temperatures encountered during transport. A tissue does a good job soaking that up, if it happens. What you are purchasing here: You send me your bearing assembly, I perform the above to restore it to better than new condition, and I ship it back when completed. Typically it is three business days to complete the service, sometimes faster. Shipping charge above is the return shipping to you- you are responsible for shipping the bearing assembly (ONLY) to me, properly packaged for safe transport. REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS: (you need a #1 Philips [or better, JIS] screwdriver and the original spanner, or large opening [channel lock] pliers)Secure, or remove the tonearmremove the dust coverRemove the belt, and platterTip the unit up on edge, to gain access to the bottom spindle. You may need help to keep the unit secure from falling!Remove the ground lead with the screwdriver. Be sure to not lose the star washer, and return the screw to the housing.Grab the large steel lock ring with the pliers, or insert the spanner into the slots in the ring, and remove by turning counter-clockwise. (often these are able to be removed by hand with no tools)Completely remove the nut and washer. You should keep it safe at home. I do not have replacements available!Place the deck back onto its feet and remove the bearing housing by carefully sliding it up out of the plinth. Try not to catch the top veneer with the threads, as the veneer is thin and dry- easily chipped.Place the bearing assembly in a zip-lock bag, and then wrap in bubble wrap (no peanuts!) for shipping. Use a service with tracking, and include my email for notifications so we both know what's going on.Once received, I will let you know I have it, and the projected work schedule for the rebuild.Once complete, I will let you know and provide a tracking number for the package when it ships. I recommend an hour of “run-in” to warm the oil and settle out. Some seepage may occur at the top- just clean up with a tissue and re-install the platter. (See last photo) Check speed via strobe or test record after run-in, as you may find it a bit faster with the reduced drag of the fresh bearing. Enjoy the music!
Price: 100 USD
Location: North Haven, Connecticut
End Time: 2024-02-18T19:41:36.000Z
Shipping Cost: 18.4 USD
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