DMW Scratch Built Inline Kit

Description: This auction is for a New DMW Scratch Built Inline Kit Chassis. The list below is included in the Kit Plus the Bonus of one pair of Slick 7 .900 wide Euro Rims Brass Inline Scratch Build Kit - DMW0082 Item # SKU# Description List Price Each Quantity Included List Value 1 DMW0069 Brass Inline 16D Nose Piece $6.99 1 $6.99 2 DMW0073 Hardened Steel Tongue Extension .050" Thick with guide holes $1.79 1 $1.79 3 DMW0072 Steel Tongue Spacer .025" Thick with guide holes $0.99 1 $0.99 4 DMW0018 White Nylon Guide Nuts $0.25 1 $0.25 5 DMW0099 Threaded Guide $1.99 1 $1.99 6 DMW0100 Guide Washers $0.25 2 $0.50 7 DMW0060 Front Wheel, Aluminum .500" $0.49 2 $0.98 8 DMW0062 Brass Wheel Retainer, 1/16" Axle $0.17 5 $0.85 9 DMW0090 Super Heavy Duty Body Pins $0.27 5 $1.35 10 DMW0087 Body Pin Tube $0.27 5 $1.35 11 DMW0070 L & R Brass Inline 16D Side Pans L&R $6.99 1 $6.99 12 DMW0086 Hinge Tube for Scratch Built Chassis $0.27 5 $1.35 13 DMW0068 Brass Inline 16D Motor Bracket $6.99 1 $6.99 14 DMW0061 3/32" Bronze Axle Bushing $0.49 2 $0.98 15 DMW0009 3/32 Drill Blank Axles $0.99 1 $0.99 Total Value $34.34 SHIPPING IS $7.65 DOMESTICALLY AND $16.75 INTERNATIONALLY VIA FIRST CLASS MAIL. I will be happy to combine multiple items to reduce your shipping cost.Inline Chassis Build Guide If you are not going to fly solo with this build, I am happy to help. I have attached a picture of an assembled chassis with the listing. You can see the center section has four lengths of piano wire. Two straight that go from the slots in the nose piece back to the outside of the motor box. The other two go from the inside of the motor box and get bent towards the center to end up in the slightly wider slot in the center of the nose piece. Be sure that you fashion them so that there is adequate room for the motor to fit. For these I use .062 piano wire but you can also use .055. I don’t recommend going any smaller than that. I use Lucky Bob’s liquid acid flux for the solder joints and silver solder. I run the wire through some sand paper to clean them prior to soldering. After soldering I clean the chassis with clear water to rinse off any residual flux to the wire doesn’t rust. The nose piece will absorb quite a bit of heat so you might consider using a mini butane torch for those joints, particularly for soldering the guide tongue. You can use the torch to preheat the nose piece so that it won’t take so long with the soldering iron. I think I got mine at Harbor Freight for about $15.00. The kit comes with a spacer for under the guide tongue. I don’t use it myself. The side pans have two notches each. I find that it is useful to make them 1/8 or so longer to give more room for the hinge tubes. The kit comes with 5 hinge tubes so you have one extra. They will take .047 piano wire bent at 90 degrees. One leg of the angle goes through the hinge tube and the other is soldered on the end of the side pan. When you are soldering the hinge tubes in place attaching them to the .062 wire on the center section, make sure that there is minimum play between the end of the tube and the right angle bend in the .047 wire. That way the hinges will function but the pans will not be too sloppy. At the guide end of the side pans you will need to install a stop. These materials are not included with the kit. I use a short piece of square brass tube 1/8 square and 1/8 long. It is soldered to the rear outside tip of the nose piece with the opening running front to back. A short piece of piano wire is soldered to the forward outside tip of the side pans with a short length extending into the opening of the square tube. I find that that extended end needs to be bent slightly up to fit into the square tube so that the side pan with rest flush with the “deck”. .055 wire is a good size for the stop. The front wheels use .062 wire as their axle and .062 retainers come with the kit as do the wheels. I cut the wire to length and grind the ends so the wheel and retainer fit on easier. Then solder one of the outside retainers before assembling the other components in the proper order on to the uprights on the nose piece. Then solder the retainer on the opposite end. Position the axle assembly side to side and solder it in place on the nose piece ensuring it is a bottom dead center on the nose piece holes. Lastly solder the inside retainers in place ensuring there is adequate play so that the wheels will spin freely. At this point I think it is very important to rinse the wheel assembly with clear water and dowse it with a good amount of oil to make sure there is not residual flux underneath the wheel and rusting the wire. The rust will prevent the wheels from turning. The rear bushings fit fairly well into the holes in the motor box. To ensure that the rear axle is perpendicular to the centerline of the chassis, it is best to use a chassis jig. The jig is also useful in keeping the outside of the side pans at the correct width. The only other thing I can think of would be soldering the body pin tubes into the provided “ears”. They should fit right in. That is all I can think of. If I have left anything out or if you have any further questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to me at WWW.DMWPRODUCTS.COM. Thanks and have fun! Doug

Price: 19.99 USD

Location: Grass Valley, California

End Time: 2024-08-06T14:07:40.000Z

Shipping Cost: 7.65 USD